valley public relations
San Jose Mercury News
February 11 , 2004
THINK BEYOND DESSERT
By Carolyn Jung
IN ITS UNSWEETENED FORM, CACAO ADDS DEPTH TO MEAT, PASTA, VEGETABLE
DISHES
Sure, you can give your sweetie that big red box of chocolates or that heart-shaped
gooey chocolate cake.
But for something really original and unexpected this Valentine's Day, make dinner out
of chocolate.
How decadent is that?
Don't scoff at the notion of cacao nibs tossed with crunchy green beans, or a pancetta-
cocoa sauce ladled over pasta, or chocolate sauteed with chopped chicken livers or
chocolate stirred into a big pot of short ribs.
Chocolate may be most associated with dessert these days, but it has a savory
history. And thanks to an ever-growing supply of high-quality chocolate from around
the world, as well as newfangled products such as nibs, more and more chefs are
exploring the not-so-sweet side of chocolate.
``People think of chocolate as a hot fudge sundae, as opposed to a deep, earthy
taste,'' says Berkeley's Alice Medrich, whose chocolate cookbooks and now-closed
Bay Area Cocolat dessert shops have made her name synonymous with chocolate.
``But if you close your eyes and taste dark chocolate, you realize it's just a natural as a
savory ingredient.''
The Spanish, Italians and Mexicans have long known that. In its natural state, the
cacao bean, from which chocolate is derived, is far from sweet. Indeed, it is extremely
astringent.
The first Mesoamericans tamed that bitterness by combining chocolate with herbs,
flower petals, chiles, honey and achiote, according to ``The New Taste of Chocolate, A
Cultural & Natural History of Cacao with Recipes'' by Maricel E. Presilla. Aztec Emperor
Montezuma imbibed a frothy elixir of anise, chile peppers and ground, roasted cacao
beans. And chocolate was a prime ingredient in gruels and porridges made of ground
corn and spices.
In the late 17th century, according to the book, Europe and colonial Mexico began to
use chocolate as a spice in savory dishes, including the Sicilian caponata, the
Catalan estofados (braised dishes) and the Spanish-Indian moles of Mexico -- which
all remain popular today.
What chocolate imparts to savory dishes is an incomparable depth and richness. And
it makes meat dishes taste somehow meatier.
``If it's done well, it will be nuanced and you won't really know it's there,'' says Medrich,
whose newest cookbook, ``Bittersweet,'' includes a chapter on ``Chocolate for Dinner''
with such recipes as coq au vin and wild mushroom ragout, each made with
unsweetened chocolate. ``For anybody who cooks, it's like having another color on the
palette. I just love the other dimension you get from it.''
Executive Chef Justin Perez of RESTAURANT O® in Campbell likes to pair
unsweetened chocolate with exotic meats, not only because the more strongly
flavored game meats really stand up to the robust flavor of the chocolate, but because,
surprisingly, adding chocolate often entices diners to be more daring in what they eat.
``Chocolate gets attention. It really allows timid eaters who aren't sure of venison or
boar to take a chance,'' says Perez, who has played around with chocolate for four
years, ever since he tasted a French chef's chocolate-port sauce with meat. ``They
figure it can't be bad if it has chocolate in it.''
Elk is often on Perez's menus. Last autumn, he paired an elk chop with a cabernet-
chocolate sauce infused with blueberries. It was a bestseller. And the short ribs with
chocolate, sherry and blood orange sauce on the winter menu is often the restaurant's
most ordered dish on Saturday nights. No wonder; it tastes like the most intensely
caramelized meat ever.
As with wine, Perez advises, never cook with a chocolate you wouldn't want to eat. Use
unsweetened or bittersweet chocolate or cocoa powder in savory dishes. After all, you
don't really want your plate of meat or vegetables to taste like a box of chocolates. And
don't be afraid to experiment with a few white or dark chocolate curls as a garnish.
Perez likes to crown a dish with a thin cylinder of white chocolate to hint at what's in
store.
Medrich is a fan of cacao nibs, tiny nuggets of roasted, shelled and cracked cocoa
beans. Berkeley's Scharffen Berger is one manufacturer of the unsweetened nibs,
which are dry and crunchy. While chocolatiers use nibs to add texture to fine chocolate
bars, Medrich likes them simply sprinkled on a warm, buttered corn tortilla. She also
likes them in soups, sauces, and dishes with nuts, raisins, blackberries, brown sugar
or cream.
``People should just experiment,'' she says. ``Chocolate is very compelling in the first
place. And anything new you can do with it always generates interest.''
This Valentine's Day, by all means, present your sweetheart with chocolate. But
sweeten it with a savory twist.
Contact Carolyn Jung at (408) 920-5451 or cjung@mercury news.com. Fax (408) 271-
3786.
February 11 , 2004
THINK BEYOND DESSERT
By Carolyn Jung
IN ITS UNSWEETENED FORM, CACAO ADDS DEPTH TO MEAT, PASTA, VEGETABLE
DISHES
Sure, you can give your sweetie that big red box of chocolates or that heart-shaped
gooey chocolate cake.
But for something really original and unexpected this Valentine's Day, make dinner out
of chocolate.
How decadent is that?
Don't scoff at the notion of cacao nibs tossed with crunchy green beans, or a pancetta-
cocoa sauce ladled over pasta, or chocolate sauteed with chopped chicken livers or
chocolate stirred into a big pot of short ribs.
Chocolate may be most associated with dessert these days, but it has a savory
history. And thanks to an ever-growing supply of high-quality chocolate from around
the world, as well as newfangled products such as nibs, more and more chefs are
exploring the not-so-sweet side of chocolate.
``People think of chocolate as a hot fudge sundae, as opposed to a deep, earthy
taste,'' says Berkeley's Alice Medrich, whose chocolate cookbooks and now-closed
Bay Area Cocolat dessert shops have made her name synonymous with chocolate.
``But if you close your eyes and taste dark chocolate, you realize it's just a natural as a
savory ingredient.''
The Spanish, Italians and Mexicans have long known that. In its natural state, the
cacao bean, from which chocolate is derived, is far from sweet. Indeed, it is extremely
astringent.
The first Mesoamericans tamed that bitterness by combining chocolate with herbs,
flower petals, chiles, honey and achiote, according to ``The New Taste of Chocolate, A
Cultural & Natural History of Cacao with Recipes'' by Maricel E. Presilla. Aztec Emperor
Montezuma imbibed a frothy elixir of anise, chile peppers and ground, roasted cacao
beans. And chocolate was a prime ingredient in gruels and porridges made of ground
corn and spices.
In the late 17th century, according to the book, Europe and colonial Mexico began to
use chocolate as a spice in savory dishes, including the Sicilian caponata, the
Catalan estofados (braised dishes) and the Spanish-Indian moles of Mexico -- which
all remain popular today.
What chocolate imparts to savory dishes is an incomparable depth and richness. And
it makes meat dishes taste somehow meatier.
``If it's done well, it will be nuanced and you won't really know it's there,'' says Medrich,
whose newest cookbook, ``Bittersweet,'' includes a chapter on ``Chocolate for Dinner''
with such recipes as coq au vin and wild mushroom ragout, each made with
unsweetened chocolate. ``For anybody who cooks, it's like having another color on the
palette. I just love the other dimension you get from it.''
Executive Chef Justin Perez of RESTAURANT O® in Campbell likes to pair
unsweetened chocolate with exotic meats, not only because the more strongly
flavored game meats really stand up to the robust flavor of the chocolate, but because,
surprisingly, adding chocolate often entices diners to be more daring in what they eat.
``Chocolate gets attention. It really allows timid eaters who aren't sure of venison or
boar to take a chance,'' says Perez, who has played around with chocolate for four
years, ever since he tasted a French chef's chocolate-port sauce with meat. ``They
figure it can't be bad if it has chocolate in it.''
Elk is often on Perez's menus. Last autumn, he paired an elk chop with a cabernet-
chocolate sauce infused with blueberries. It was a bestseller. And the short ribs with
chocolate, sherry and blood orange sauce on the winter menu is often the restaurant's
most ordered dish on Saturday nights. No wonder; it tastes like the most intensely
caramelized meat ever.
As with wine, Perez advises, never cook with a chocolate you wouldn't want to eat. Use
unsweetened or bittersweet chocolate or cocoa powder in savory dishes. After all, you
don't really want your plate of meat or vegetables to taste like a box of chocolates. And
don't be afraid to experiment with a few white or dark chocolate curls as a garnish.
Perez likes to crown a dish with a thin cylinder of white chocolate to hint at what's in
store.
Medrich is a fan of cacao nibs, tiny nuggets of roasted, shelled and cracked cocoa
beans. Berkeley's Scharffen Berger is one manufacturer of the unsweetened nibs,
which are dry and crunchy. While chocolatiers use nibs to add texture to fine chocolate
bars, Medrich likes them simply sprinkled on a warm, buttered corn tortilla. She also
likes them in soups, sauces, and dishes with nuts, raisins, blackberries, brown sugar
or cream.
``People should just experiment,'' she says. ``Chocolate is very compelling in the first
place. And anything new you can do with it always generates interest.''
This Valentine's Day, by all means, present your sweetheart with chocolate. But
sweeten it with a savory twist.
Contact Carolyn Jung at (408) 920-5451 or cjung@mercury news.com. Fax (408) 271-
3786.
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